Trip B Report #2: 7-8 July 2009 (Quelimane to Gorongosa Reserve)

The next morning we woke early, and Mark gave us some very good pointers on the road ahead, as well as references of places to stay, and the name and number of another missionary further south, who basically does the same as Mark – helping people in need!

He also told us that we should not arrive any time later than 11h30 at the Ferry crossing over the Zambezi River, as the ferry staff go on lunch break from 12h00 t0 14h00, thus the last ferry before lunch departs around that time. Then it could take up to 15h00 in the afternoon to get the ferry again.

Adri had to try and sort out his oil leak, as we were concerned he may blow the engine. Adri and Hennie slid underneath the Dokka for repairs albeit Hennie’s role was more that of moral support. In a flash Adri fitted another part that fixed the problem. Anita then proceeded to try and clean the back of the Dokka, which was filthy from all the black oily smoke that spewed out of the car the previous day. I also did a thorough cleaning of the windscreen.

We left a little bit later than planned and arrived at 11h35. Needless to say, we only crossed the river around 14h45! The saddest part is that we had to get onto the ferry right next to the brand spanking new completed bridge, that could not be used, as it has not been officially opened as yet. That was scheduled to happen the following week!

Service at the fuel station at Caia was very slow, that set us back even further. We tried to push as fast as we dared. The road was good, with the occasional pothole to remind you that you cannot travel full speed. We desperately wanted to catch the entrance gate to the Gorongoza park before it closes at 18h00. As can be expected with our luc, we arrived at 18h10, and were not allowed to enter. We asked permission to pitch our tents in front of the gate, and the guards then told us to go to “Piet’s place”, approximately 3km back.

What a delightful surprise. Piet’s camp turned out to be a beautiful, well equipped camp site nestled in the bush. Sakkie, Piet’s eldest son, an entrepreneur in many ways, has just started with developing a camp site. Sakkie informed us that the overnight fee would be a mere donation, as he felt the campsite was not fully completed. What a lovely stay at this camp site, and recommended it to a few travellers we met on the way, and to anyone reading this blog.

Due to the fact that the only place that the green-headed oriole occurs are on the slopes of the Gorongoza mountain, Adri and Anita arranged with Sakkie to take them up the mountain before day break the following day, in an attempt to spot this rare bird.

Hennie and I slept in, packed up camp and headed for the Gorongoza Game Reserve. We decided to opt for a chalet as the ground was still wet from rain, and that a large overlander truck occupied most of the camp site. We took a leisurely drive through the park, and were quite surprised by the variety of vegetation. The park has more warthog and waterbuck than Impala! We were lucky to see lion, oribi, reedbuck, and many more.

We were getting worried when we enquired at reception at around 12h00 whether Adri and Anita have arrived and were informed that they were not yet there. Around 15h00 we enquired again, and of course many scenarios were played out in our heads as to what has befallen the Van der Veers! Just then the cell phone rang and Anita informed us that they encountered a bit of bad lack on the way down the mountain.

The rarely spotted green-headed oriole remained elusive, but they did spot a few other rare and interesting bird species. On their way back the land cruiser they were travelling in bumped into a rock that shifted the runnerboard to press against the tyre. Emergency repairs were carried out with primitive materials, as they did not have tools, to get the vehicle running again. This of course resulted in them being delayed and only arriving at the Gorongoza Game Reserve well after 17h00 soaking wet but with big smiles! We treated ourselves to the buffet dinner at the restaurant, with a few bottles of wine.