Trip Report #15 (2 –4 July 2009): Pemba Dive and Bush Camp

Arriving in Pemba, “fresh” from the bush, was a relief to say the least. The drive was long, very long indeed, and I handed over to Mari-Louise to drive the tar section between Montepuez and Pemba.  We headed straight for Brenda’s Camp (as it is known between consulting overlanders and locals) or Nacole Jardim meaning something about a garden (as it was previously known and still called, to Brenda’s dismay, in the Lonely Planet).  Brenda runs the newish “Pemba Dive and Bush Camp” .  She is a larger than life, passionate conservationist who spends a not insignificant amount of her time (including drumming all night to sunrise) convincing the locals that she is a witch.  The latter helps with her conservationist efforts.

We arrived late and decided to head out for food.  For this we went to Russel’s Camp, another camp in Pemba which also has a welcoming restaurant known for it’s seafood.  We were disappointed to find that no prawns were available, since we had been fantasising about prawns to wile away the endless hours spent on the rough, slow road this day (fantasies where shared via two way radio between vehicles, became grander as time passed and we were by now picturing piles of prawns surpassing even our collective appetite).  The beer was cold however and we could have Pizza so my disappointment was short lived.

The next day Hennie and I went for a refresher SCUBA course with Calvin, the local Pemba Dive, dive master.  Adri and Anita followed on their own and ended up with the competing dive master who managed not to scare them off when they innocently referred to “our friends who are also diving with you”.

Arriving back at camp everyone was performing chores to eventually settle down to a relaxing evening.  I had been having problems with my power-steering on the VW.  Adri found the obvious point of fluid departure.  After establishing that it was too late to run to the spares shops, we decided to let it be for the Saturday.

It was here were I first found the internet and was able to upload trip reports 1 –> 10.   This made me late for sundowners,

 

 

but I am committed to all 3 our devoted readers.

Anita and Nerina heading off for sundowners.

 

 

 

 

The view from where we sat.

 

Where we sat :-)

The Saturday morning early (06:30) Hennie and I left for a reef dive with Calvin.  Adri and Anita did not make it… something about it being too early. 

Pemba Dive operates from the beautiful Wimbi beach.

 

Pemba Dive Headquarters

 

 

View from Pemba Dive.

 

The sea was so calm, it was far more reminiscent of lake Malawi. The dive was my first reef dive in warm water and I was not disappointed.  The absolute highlight of the dive appeared just as we descended.  Out from the dark appeared a Sunfish.  A small one by comparative standards, but at least 8 foot in length.  This was something special.  Getting back to land we were again treated to a warm fresh water bucket shower which ended it all off perfectly.

Calvin was nice enough to take me to the local spares shops where I found a rubber boot which looked like it may fit, if not perfectly, then with a bit of help :-).

With assistance and guidance from Adri, we managed to fit the boot which seemed to solve the leak and steering problem.  This was not a fun job, but quite satisfying once completed.

Everyone reported to the main house (Brenda’s) where we all (excluding M-L) watched the 3rd test between the Boks and the Lions.  Quite an experience meeting Brenda’s clan.

That evening the whole camp was transformed into a party venue for Rudi (Brenda’s husband) whose birthday was being celebrated.  Everyone was invited!

ciao Carl-Hein (Die Hartseer Kwagga)