Trip Report # 18 (8 - 10 July): Lazing along Lake Malawi

One of the most absolutely fabulous things of this extended holiday is losing track of time, days and calendars. Initially I desperately tried to hang on to a sense of week days, but not caring whether it is Sunday or Monday or whether it is ‘time to get up’ or not probably really marked entering ‘Holiday Zen’ for me.

I only consciously recognised our transition into the Zen phase however, when we decided to book in the bus for a service (one or two niggly concerns to address before tackling the notorious National Park access roads in Zambia e.g. the broken and lost diff lock button) in Lilongwe.  Our intended passing through Lilongwe (according to our vague outline) coincided with a Saturday and Sunday – not optimal for a vehicle service in the normal schedule of day-to-day life. We were forced to acknowledge the dreary timetable of normality and had to wait out time to Monday.

The two ‘additional’ days allowed us a leisurely pace travelling north along the lake AND the opportunity to make a round trip to Mzuzu to visit Adams and Doreen’s family.  

We therefore booked the service for Monday 13 July, forewarned the VW service centre of parts and service requirements and set out chilling fastidiously along the lake.

This camp site was a treat.   Nkopola Lodge Camp site is operated by and located adjacent to the Nkopola Lodge Hotel (part of the Sunbird group of hotels).  This meant beautiful and rustic camp life, good camping facilities (meaning primarily toilets and hot showers) coupled with the amenities of high end accommodation (laundry, restaurant and bar facilities:-)) just a stone throw away.

Even more enchanting was being woken up in the mornings, not by the local roosters, but rather by the numerous Fish Eagles that nest along the lake and particularly in the koppie adjacent to the camp site.

The absolute highlight however is the daily feeding of the Fish Eagles by a hotel staff member. 

A fisherman on the lake in his past life, he has over time built up an understanding with the birds by tossing them fish from his boat.  He now feeds them twice a day from the lake shore in an entertaining, but not heavily advertised, display.  Once again we found out by bush telegraph (South African missionaries we ran into) and had the privilege of this experience. 

From Nkopola we took the scenic route via Mokopola Lodge for breakfast, through Monkey Bay and Cape Maclear to Senga Bay.  Malawi most certainly is a paradise!

 

At Senga Bay we did a thorough inspection of all recommended camp sites - a foreign concept to us to be stumped for choice! We favoured the extremely charming Cool Runnings above the renowned and very impressive Steps Camp site (also a Sunbird operation) and the Lonely Planet pick, Wheelhouse Marina. And boy where we pleased.   

The sheltered, grassy camping area was a perfect location against the prevailing wind and the food served at the little restaurant exclusive to residents, exquisite AND incredibly inexpensive!

Cool Runnings is frequented by an eclectic mix of backpackers, campers and ‘house guests’ from all over the world and this was our first experience of socialising with ‘others’ (i.e. really hanging with people not from our group, not from the establishment itself nor fellow South Africans intent on exchanging critical travel info)

This place is perfect to slow down another notch or two.  We strolled to the local market, watched local fisherman mend fishing nets the size of soccer fields, lazed on wood and canvas loungers and read our books.  bliss. 

The only gripe I have with this place is that it practically begged me to hang my hammock in the Jamaican-like setting, but none of the numerous (and quaintly labelled) trees are properly spaced – how inconsiderate!

M-L