Trip Report #24 (24 - 26 July): The opposite of Mana Pools

On the bank of the Zambezi, opposite the legendary Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, lies Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park (LZNP). Seeing that any Zimbabwe border crossings are right at the bottom of our wish list at present, we have been keenly investigating opportunities to visit the Zambian answer to the Mana Pools. Information about this newest of Zambia’s National Parks is scarce and that which is scrounged from the internet, books and picking the brains of hosts and their contacts seem to indicate high end lodges, exorbitant prices and poor accessibility by road.  In fact, the refraining response points to canoe safari’s being the most preferred way of exploring this part of the Zambezi.  We toy with this idea, but our time is running out and three days isthe shortest trip that includes this area.

But, at Pioneer Camp in Lusaka we find an enticing glossy brochure for Mvuu Lodge just 18km short of the LZNP gate offering exclusive, but affordable camping facilities, clear directions that seems doable and day canoe trips!

Elly Camp, Mvuu Lodge, LZNP is therefore where we excitedly head from Kafue.

 

 

 

 

O yes, as we have to pass through Lusaka again, Carl-Hein stubbornly insists we stop to collect the claim forms to recover our 39% import duties/taxes.  He gets totally snookered by incompetence, new officials and new facts entirely inconsistent with the instructions received on Monday.  When navigation of the pillars and posts of this maze leads to the Commissioner who is only ‘maybe’ available we cut our losses and head out of town.

Mvuu Lodge is everything the glossy brochure promised it would be and more.

The 18km road to the Park entrance is difficult and slow and guests from game drives return disappointed.  

Ferry crossing to get to MVuu lodge.

(This is before the road gets bad)

 

 

The LZNP is also plagued with poaching (losing 40 elephant in the past year alone to poachers!) and for reasons unknown, a diminishing population of carnivores. 

Elly campsite (Mvuu) right on the Zambezi.

(Private gas fired bathroom, private washing basin)

 

 

View of Zambezi from Mvuu cocktail stoep.

 

 

We opt for a canoe trip when told of elephant river crossings with trunks held high and great sightings from a river perspective.  Unfortunately the day of our canoe trip is windy and overcast so wildlife sightings are few and the navigation of choppy, croc filled waters is nerve racking.  We do however get front seat viewing of the numerous luxury lodges along the river bank!    

Mana Pools are in fact no longer four (mana = four in the Shona language) pools since the construction of the Kariba dam.  The remaining attraction is the diversity and density of wildlife on the Zimbabwe side.  Crossing fingers that the newly formalised Game Management Agency on the Zambian side with the blessing of the local Chieftainess will promote responsible game management and infrastructure upgrading to rival the legend of Mana Pools.   

 

Leaving Mvuu we had to yield to some locals.

M-L