Saturday, August 1, 2009

Trip Report #25 (26 - 27 July): Livingstone I presume…uhhh…can you help push the bus?

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Mvuu Lodge to Livingstone is a long but easy drive except for roughly 80km under construction just before Livingstone town.  The quarterly government issue Zambia Review states in excess of 58% of roads in Zambia are now in a good condition (up from 20% when the infrastructure development programme started).  I guess it was inevitable that this road should also have a 42%.

We are headed to the magical Jungle Junction Bovu Island 30km outside of Livinsgtone and on route to the Katima Mulilo border crossing, but as we drive into Livingstone the syncro stalls and …three guesses …refuses to start.  The starter motor apparently.  Run starting proved easy enough with help from the locals, but now we needed accommodation somewhere close to help.

For the first time on our trip we experience peak season and find Fawlty Towers, Jolly Boys Backpackers and their recommended alternatives in town jam packed.  With a well coordinated and nifty run start manoeuvre we make it to Bushfront just outside of town and set up camp in a perfectly quaint camp spot. IMG_1892 Bizarrely, we are greeted by Joost and Caroline, neighbouring campers from Mvuu Lodge! who identifies the distinct and uncommon-in-Africa sound of the VW kombi, and incredulously recognises our vehicle (rather than ourselves).

Dinner is whole bream shared with Simba the local ginger cat. 

Breakfast at Rapsody’s in an all South African shopping centre opposite the very efficient and Afrikaans Bennet’s Auto Repairs Shop.  This drill is becoming overly familiar. IMG_1896 Luckily the starter motor is only dirty from dust roads and gunk and the wait here short lived. 

Note the “Importing of all spares from SA” as an specialization.

 

We do visit the falls and the curio shops in a stubborn insistence on seeing sights other than auto repair shops. 

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The falls from Zambia.  Water level is not as high as it gets, but the river is flowing over the full rock face, yielding an artificial rain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It’s wet (rain from falls)

 

 

 

We pass the turn off for Bovu Island with disappointment and head for Namibia.   IMG_1935

Our moods were lifted by this pink cravat wearing policeman.

 

 

Maybe our Volla will feel more welcome in a country where VW Kombis are revered and will stick with the programme. 

He had better as at this point we are tempted to ditch this trip and head home for two weeks of car-problem-free holiday.

Regard M-L

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